Timeless & Classic ~ the IWC Portugieser

“You are what you wear” is a statement that holds good any day. To make a real statement, men don’t just invest in good shoes; they also go for the best in watches. The true characteristic of a good watch is quality, class, style and the brand of course.  IWC is a brand renowned for their engineering excellence and the collections are so diverse that there are watches across occasions, be it dressing up for an evening out or diving. Therefore, it is no surprise that an IWC Portugieser Ref 325 falls under this category and is a preferred choice for many.

The History

While watches have always been an accessory loved by men and women alike., if we were to single out one particular brand or model, then we should look at the International Watch Company [IWC] brand. A story that began with an American Engineer going all the way to Switzerland and getting into the business of making high end watches.

While the 30s weren’t great in Europe, more so in the Swiss Watch market, with the county was going through terrible political unrest, mainly in Germany, IWC managed to tide over.

It was around this period that IWC created the IWC Portugieser, which was originally called The Portuguese.  It is a story involving two Portuguese businessmen –Teixeira & Rodrigues who visited the IWC (then called International Watch Company) Schaffausen [the company headquarters]. Their demand was one of a kind, a wristwatch that matched the precision of a marine chronometer.  A watch was designed, and simply called “Mod. 228”, renamed as Reference 325 much later. The unique feature of this watch was the relatively thin 3 part 41.5 mm case that was matched with a dial that took on the modern look as seen in the German design concept called Bauhaus instead of going the Art deco path.

Another piece of interesting information about this luxury watch for men is that it was not delivered to Portugal. If one was to dig through the records related to the sales, they would find that it was indeed delivered to, L. Schwarcz, an Ukrainian watch wholesaler based in Odessa in February 1939. It was only three years later, in 1942 that the 1st Portuguese wristwatches arrived in the country of Portugal.

The Variations

Like every other product, the watch industry too keeps evolving over time, with new models and features added in. People who enjoy collecting watches not only look at the aesthetics but also at the quality, the features [chronograph], the design, the timelessness and of course the price.

While the IWC started their journey manufacturing pocket watches, they gradually moved on to wristwatches, soon entering the luxury watches market, which is where they made their mark in the world market.

Rolling out their 1st watch in 1935- the pilot's watch, they focussed on creating a model that had a sleek black dial and big bold indicators; it came an arrow and a rotating bezel that indicated time,  

Over the years that followed, IWC rolled out 690 of the Ref 325 Portugieser, as they had become a collectible watch. They did come out with a range of dial variations, arrows and indices for the Portugieser [ref. 325] but most of them had a combination of the black or silver dial with beautiful embossed Arabic numerals and the slender leaf hands.

Made from Staybrite stainless steel [corrosion, acid & scratch resistant type], the unique design of the Portugieser was that it featured a satin finish on the center with polished on the bezel. It also had a big crown that made it easy to wind.

However the Portugieser model was not as popular as they had hoped, but things changed in the 1990s.  How you ask? Well, Kurt Klaus - the renowned IWC watchmaker wore the IWC Portugieser when meeting a client and that drew quite a bit of attention. Many were amazed at the particular model and that is when the IWC decided to continue this model, along with a new model that was unveiled at the 125th Anniversary celebration.

That model was “The Portugieser [ref. 5441]”. It had their signature silver dial, platinum Arabic numerals and dots indexes with the leaf hands. The company made 1750 pieces 1000 of them in stainless steel, while 500 were in rose gold and a smaller batch of 250 in platinum.

Some of the other models from IWC between 1942 and the 2000 were,

  The Portugieser Yacht Club Automatic (Ref. 811 A/Ad)

  The Portugieser Anniversary Watch (Ref. Iw5441)

  The Portugieser Automatic 2000 (Ref. Iw500001)

  The Portugieser Automatic 2000 (Ref. Iw500001)

And then from 2010 they launched another series of watches, including the ones that came out on their 75th anniversary [in 2014].

  IWC Portugieser Grande Complication (Ref. Iw377401)

  Portugieser Tourbillon Mystere Retrograde (Ref. Iw504401)

  The Portugieser Hand-Wound (Ref. Iw545408 

  The Portugieser Yacht Club Chronograph (Ref. Iw390210)

  Portugieser Chronograph Classic (Ref. IW390403).

  Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight Days (Ref. IW510202)

  Portugieser Annual Calendar (Ref. IW503501)

  Portugieser Perpetual Calendar Digital Date-Month Edition “75th Anniversary” (Ref. IW397201)

The Top 3

While they did have a wide range of watches to choose from, there were three that stood out.

1. IWC Men's Swiss Quartz Watch with Stainless Steel Strap, Black (Model: IW371447) –

 The most popular among the IWC watches is this one- IWC Men's Swiss Quartz Watch with Stainless Steel Strap, Black. The beautiful stainless steel base watch comes with a black Alligator leather strap, and there is a sapphire crystal in the dial window. Completely scratch resistant, this chronograph watch has a black dial and silver numerals. Water resistant upto 100feet, it weighs in at 2.2pounds. This is a watch one could sport be it for a meeting or for a special occasion. The design element is what catches your eyes first followed by the sleek dial.

2.     IWC Men's Swiss Automatic Watch with Stainless Steel Strap, Black (Model: IW388002)

With a casual look, the IWC Men's Swiss Automatic Watch with Stainless Steel Strap comes with a black dial, hour markers in the center and minute markers on the outer rim. Made with stainless steel, it contains sapphire crystal screen and is among the lightest watch of them all, at 1 pound. It is also a chronograph watch, with a sporty feel ideal for those who travel often.

3.     IWC Men's Quartz Watch with Stainless Steel Strap, Black (Model: IW327001)

One of the most smart, stylish and colorful watches from IWC, this one comes with a Stainless steel case paired with a sleek black Santoni calfskin leather strap (red on the inner side). Apart from the colour, the watch is the most popular thanks to the simple design and lightweight, at 15.84ounces. The stainless steel bezel in the black dial is quite the combination, not to forget the luminescent markers within.  

After a few days on the wrist 

Products that are sought out are accessories, especially watches. For example, IWC launched their Jubilee watch at their 125th anniversary, and this was the revival of the IWC Portugieser range of watches.  It is exciting to note that the watch is still in demand; it becomes a collectible for many.

Many a times watches are launched as a limited edition, which makes them even more appealing, and this holds true for certain models that are back in the market after being used or pre-loved as we call it. They are vintage, and there is an exclusive market for these products.

For someone into watches, Portugieser Hand-Wound Eight-Days Edition "150 Years” is a watch they would love to get their hands on [pun unintended]. Made with sleek Stainless steel case, see through sapphire glass back with a diameter of 43.2 mm, this manual winding model watch is one of a kind alright. The other highlight of this model is the 8 days power reserve and the fact that only 1000 pieces of this was made.  

Available for somewhere between $8,000 or about $10,000, this would be a watch that would be good to have in your collection

Who should show it off?

While the IWC has always been ahead of the game when it came to watches and designs, only a few of their watches stood the test of time. There are a few popular even today, no doubt. The main defining design elements in the IWC Portugieser were the simple black dial, the Arabic numerals and their stylish font plus the bezel. But then the Reference 325 went through quite a few iterations; with the dial colour to the entire look itself. 

Back in the day, these IWC watches were for those who loved classic look and feel. But with time, design changed and so did the preferences of the people who wore watches.  Their 125th anniversary watch was quite different from the one launched in 1939, it had quite the personality and appealed to the corporate crowd. These watches are for those who love to stay trendy, into brands and believe in standing out from the crowd. While some of the designs are sporty, they work well with a neatly tailored suit. 

The watches are practical and smart looking, which is a lethal combination for those from years gone by or today. But if you were the kind who is not into brands, status or class, then this watch wouldn’t do anything for them.  Also, do remember to try them on, and see how you like them before making a purchase as some of the models come with really large bulky dials.

 Alternatives to IWC watches…

It all depends on what you are looking for, and this holds true across products and price ranges. In the luxury watch division, there are not too many, but a few alternatives to the IWC watches. Some of them are Larsson & Jennings, Patek, Piguet, Breitling and Omega as well. One can also include a Rolex or a Hublot as competitors.  Another brand worthy of comparison with IWC is Panerai. While Panerai has been in the business of making watches since 1860, their stand out watch has been Luminor Marina 8 Days. But then only a few of their models went on to become a success or compete with the IWC brand.

The Pilot range of watches from IWC has no competition, but the Chronograph segment has quite a few in other brands.  But then if you are looking for watches for women, then the IWC doesn’t have too many options while the other brands mentioned have a wide range of watches to choose from.  It is all about the style, design, price and of course your personal preferences.

The final verdict

The craftsmanship that goes into making each of these pieces and the vintage value over time is what makes a watch collectible. The design, the style, the quality and durability are aspects one considers when purchasing a watch. Apart from this, we also look at comfort and functionality, can a watch be worn with different outfits, a suit and scuba gear, a casual T-shirt jean or maybe a formal evening wear.  Those who are into luxury timepieces are all about status, showing off their sense of class and style.