January 01, 2018

Roger Dubuis - Where beauty meets elegance

If you think of yourself as a watch enthusiast, you definitely would’ve heard of the words “skeletonised watches “Excalibur”, and Roger Dubuis come up in the same sentence of a conversation before. 


And how can one not? This Geneva-based watchmaker isn’t an amateur. With credentials  like 14 years spent at Patek Philippe and developing some of its most complicated watches, before leaving to start his own workshop in 1995, he sure does bring a lot to the table. 


Using inimitable technique and skill to enhance the aesthetics has always been Roger Dubuis forte and boy, it shows.  The Excalibur, Easy Diver, KingSquare and GoldenSquare are all testimonies to the perfectly mastered designs.


Be it the seemingly over-sized but sturdy cases with completely transparent backs or the imposing crowns, or  the stylised roman numerals, all the pieces that put together for a luxury watch are perfect in Roger Dubuis watches. 


The magical world of Roger Dubuis:


In this amazing world, exuberance is the factor that rules the most along with creativity. Roger Dubuis has and always will be  an extravagant brand with a rebellious streak.Tradition and craftsmanship come together to make us fall in love with each of their timepieces.


The enviable story of Roger Dubuis has always been marked by eye dazzling success. The company that was established in the year 1995 by a brilliant partnership between Carlos Dias, a brilliant designer and the talented master watchmaker – Roger Dubuis.


The company they ended up creating is a luxury watch brand that not only focuses on the age old tradition of authentic handmade watches but also modern design and themes 


Producing less than just 4,000 highly complicated watches with prices ranging from around $100,000 to $600,000 is not easy.  But right from the get go, these brilliant watch-makers introduced brilliant watch collections like the Sympathie and Hommage that very quickly caught the eyes of horologists across the world for their brilliant balance between avant-garde design and traditional watchmaking. 


The story of Roger Dubuis:


The story of Roger Dubuis, more than anything else is an iconic story of of a success that can only be described as meteoric. The Roger Dubuis watches have always been known to blend traditional watchmaking with modern design and their Excalibur and Velvet collections bear testimony to it.


Did you know that in 2013 Roger Dubuis unveiled a never before seen brand-new movement – the Quatuor, which powers the Excalibur Quatuor which is the first ever silicon wristwatch to have not one or two but four sprung balance wheels?


 2013 was a great year for Robert Dubuis, this was the year that they also launched the Excalibur -  Knights of the Round Table, a mesmerizing timepiece that astonished everyone. The company has since produced as many as  three versions of this timepiece, each featuring a different interpretation of the legendary story.


The best part about Roger Dubuis watches is that almost all the watch parts are produced in house, which include at least 15 exclusive calibers, skeletonized dials that are the signature style of Roger Dubuis watches and of course the flying tourbillons. 


Their other signature style statements are their oversized cases, Roman numeral hour markers and their classic sense of authenticism. 


Roger Dubuis - Excalibur Collection Of Watches


The Excalibur watches in the Roger Dubuis range are truly remarkable when  we compare them to their contemporaries. Mainly meant to be a collection for men, these are models with both a single and also a  double flying tourbillon. The Excalibur Watches features more subtle movements and automatic models. It is quite interesting that Roger Dubuis chose not to offer a chronograph in this series.


All the models in this collection come with a signature elegance and unique aesthetics. Take for example the Spider Pirelli, which features a unique black strap which is sure to catch anyone’s eye. What looks like an ordinary strap on the first glance actually hosts a rubber inlay, from a tyre that won a Pirelli race!  


Another model in the Excalibur collection is the Knights Of The Round Table.  Featuring an in-house automatic caliber, this watch is unique, but what actually sets this watch apart is the unbeatable dial.  This dial was in fact inspired by the story of King Arthur and the Knights Of The Round Table


Every hour marker featured on the dial in pink gold is hand-sculpted in order to be individual, every one of them representing a different knight. Seated circularly across a pink gold and blue table and housed inside a beautiful gold case, the dial is a masterpiece in its own.


The watch also comes on a brilliant blue alligator leather strap making it truly a collector’s piece. This watch, limited to 28 pieces is something every watch collector would yearn to have. 


Roger Dubuis - Velvet Collection Of Watches


Roger Dubuis collection of Velvet watches are the more feminine models, featuring diamonds and precious metals. These unique collector’s items come in different materials like white gold, yellow gold and pink gold too.  Most of the watches in the Velvet collection come with an alligator leather strap and buckle or precious metal bracelets. 


The Velvet collection features watches with dials that come in a wide array of colours including black, white and blue, but also feature a beautifully bright flower motif. Some of the dial options also feature an array of beautiful diamond-studded dials. The Roger Dubuis Velvet collection for women also has a case that’s sort of a combination of a circle and a tonneau shape, which has captured the hearts of watch lovers worldwide.


Now that we’ve understood the popularity, let’s also take a look at some of the reasons why they are so popular in the horological world. 


Top 7 Reasons to Buy A Roger Dubuis Watch:           


Reason 1 : Their intricate movements : 


One cannot speak of fine watchmaking without talking about the heart of the watch, the movement. The only way to come up with original calibers is to have a mastery over watch production, or in other words, to be heading and managing the most integrated manufacturing facilities. The best part is it took Roger Dubuis only four years to have achieved this in 1999. 


Reason 2 : Their signature sense of style


Roger Dubuis has always been renowned for their powerful design elements. Their collections like their most famous Excalibur, King Square, Easy Diver, Golden Square and La Monégasque collections truly embodify this. With statuesque and sturdy cases with completely transparent backs and stylish Roman numerals and three lugs to secure the strap to the case, the hallmark Roger Dubuis watches are truly stylish like none other. 


Reason 3: Their excellence in design and aesthetics 


While the movements of Roger Dubuis have always been developed and designed with such precise criteria that leaves no stone unturned, their aesthetics are none the lesser too. With unique colours and styles to attract even the most discerning horologist’s eyes, the principles Roger Dubuis stand for guarantee the originality, quality and precision of a luxury masterpiece. 


Reason 4: Their perfect functionality 


The experienced watch-makers at Roger Dubuis have been working relentlessly over the years, trying to improvise on the functionality of each watch’s indication, and it does show. Take the example of the innovative world time display by means of a triple time zone, a particularly legible and intuitive interpretation of this classic complication. Complex solutions are developed with the sole purpose of simplifying use, such as a rotation of the bezel to activate the minute-repeater function.


Reason 5: Their sophisticated technicality 


At Roger Dubuis,  the watchmakers have managed to deliver such sophisticated technical solutions that they constantly continue to improve the reliability and precision of their movements. A perfect example of this would be the double tourbillon with differential, that  actually synchronises two mechanisms to optimise the watch’s rate.


Reason 6: Their brilliant legibility


Each movement’s design gives particular importance to the perfect legibility of the functions on the dial. Roger Dubuis’ exclusive instantaneous in-line perpetual calendar is a remarkable example of this, as day, date and month can be read at a glance. The ruby and diamond markers on the flange of the Excalibur skeleton double tourbillon allow the time to be precisely read despite the complex configuration of the dial.


Reason 7: Their unique exclusivity


Every movement of a Roger Dubuis watch has been designed to be particularly exclusive, whether it is in the combination of functions that they propose, their intrinsic aesthetics, or the way all of this seamlessly fits inside.


Top Five Watch Roger Dubuis Models 


Let’s now take a look at the top 5 best known and the most popular Roger Dubuis watches:



  • Roger Dubuis Sympathie Bi-retro Calendar:



Roger Dubuis introduced the Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Moonphase in 1995. Truly a masterpiece to look at,  with a 37mm gold case stylized in the shape of a cushion. 


The real features of the watch stand out in the first glance. The off-white dial,  with a minimal moon-phase complication at 6 o’clock, and a small sub-dial which shows the month and leap-year cycle at 12. Although it is quite a lot to have on such a small dial, it works out very well. 



  • Roger Dubuis Easy Diver Automatic-Self-Winding:



The name Easy diver, probably taken from “Easy Rider,” just brings alive the energy in any watch enthusiast. Even the shape of the Easy Diver watch case is quite unique in my opinion. The lugs with flared edges appeal to you so visually that it’s hard to put it down. Featuring a 46mm stainless steel case, along with a beautifully finished black ceramic bezel, that surrounds a black dial.it truly is a visual treat. 


  • Roger Dubuis Sympathie Swiss-Automatic: 



You cannot talk about Roger Dubuis and fail to mention this classic Sympathie watch. With a beautifully designed and large polished stainless steel case (43mm) and a classic silver dial, and large roman numerals, the watch is indeed something you cannot take your eyes off of. With a sapphire front and also a exhibitive back glass that displays  it's RD14 automatic movement, this watch surely should be on everyone’s wish list. This watch comes with a power reserve of 48hrs. 

  1. Roger Dubuis King Mechanical (Automatic) : 


Roger Dubuis King Square  is a beautifully intrinsically designed self-winding automatic watch.  Featuring a brilliant 40mm titanium case, that surrounds a beautifully finished black dial on a sexy black rubber strap and also a titanium deployment buckle, this is truly a collector’s piece. 

  1. Roger Dubuis Aqua Mare 

The Roger Dubuis Aqua Mare is undoubtedly as pleasing aesthetically as it is functional. This brilliant  timepiece from Roger Dubuis is very unique, truly a combination of functionality and style. As wonderful it might look wonderful gracing a suited gentleman's wrist, the watch can be worn on a day out golfing too. The Roger Dubuis Acqua Mare Automatic comes in a super-legible squared-off case that truly complements its large size.

  1. Roger Dubuis Lamborghini or the Excalibur Aventador S


The latest in the list of watches we’ve brought to you, Roger Dubuis Lamborghini  was first unveiled to the public as recently as in the SIHH 2018. Roger Dubuis released some very colourful  new iterations of their iconic Excalibur collection, along with partners Perfect Fit Pirelli and Raging Mechanics Lamborghini Squadra Corse. 


The technical specialists at Roger Dubuis technical drew inspiration from the Lamborghini spirit and successfully created the first ever horological expression of this world renowned brand. 


To summarize, in our opinion, more than a luxury watch company, Roger Dubuis, established in 1995, is a whole new world of vision on their own.  The extrinsically beautiful mechanisms are enclosed in baroque cases, and brought forward through incredibly detailed, fantasy worlds.


Governed by a mindset that continues to drive innovation while not forgetting to cultivate deep respect for traditions, Robert Dubuis sure has sent a high standard for any watchmaker. Since their founding, Robert Dubuis has continued to show what can only be described as an unending commitment to push all technical boundaries.


If you’re looking to invest in a luxury watch, in our opinion, then this brand is something that should definitely be on your checklist!